Until now I filled the gaps and primed everything.. except the strand of hair and the cravat, because I forgot them lol
As for the hairparts I made them semi-transparent, imo the clear parts are kind of useless for this kit, white resin would have been so much nicer for her ._.
I already started to paint her. For the body I wanted to use the Mr. Color – Pearl Green… but it eaten the primer. I guess that stuff is more suitable for airbrush work? My brush could be dead too >_<
In a few minutes I’ll will paint again, until the birthday present for my father arrives, than this has more priority 
7 Responses to “priming”
Did you use a lacquer based primer?
Ehm, I don’t know? xD
I used Dupli-Color primer, it’s called “special primer” and can paint over with synthetic resin-, acryl or nitro-combi lacquer (if those are the correct translations ._.)
Yup it is lacquer. I’m surprised it eat the primer. Only reason I can think of is that the primer didn’t completely cure and the lacquer solvent in the Mr.Color paint reactivated the primer.
Lot of people hand brush Mr. Color. Test it another another piece but give the primer a few days to completely harden.
Also what are you using to thin the Mr.Color?
I. . . didn’t thin it… I just put a small bit on my brush to test it.
After that I used a random left-over piece and paint it with acrylics, than overpainted it with Mr. Color (since the green is non-visible), it was almost ok, only by the second stroke it peeled a bit off.
Ah same thing happens with Tamiya acrylics. They dry too fast and the second stroke will pick up the previous layer.
Cody Coop recommends Mr. Leveling Thinner (basically Mr. Color Thinner with some retarding agent) for hand brushing. I also think it needs more time to completely dry between strokes than painting with acrylics.
Arg what i posted just now sounds like a contradiction, “dries to fast” and “requires more time to dry between strokes” but it is oddly true.
It starts to dry a lot quicker without a retarder than acrylics but also requires more time between layers because a new layer can reactivate the under layer unless it is completely cured.
Regular water base acrylics don’t reactivate the previous layer like lacquer and enamel paints.
Hope that helps.
Thanks it helps a lot!
I keep that in mind on my next try